Hems, necklines and armholes on doll clothes are turned under and stitched. On pieces this small, pressing before you sew is what makes an edge look neat. Sewing is the most secure finish; glue is an option for some hems.
1Which lines you fold on
Every edge that gets hemmed or turned under, like a sleeve end, a neckline or the bottom of a skirt, has a dotted line marked FOLD: fold along it. An edge that gets sewn to another piece has a dashed line instead: that is where the seam goes, so don’t fold it first. Folding exactly on the dotted line puts the finished edge where the pattern was drafted, so the garment comes out the right size.
2Press a single narrow fold
Fold the edge to the back once along the dotted line and press it with an iron. A single narrow fold reduces bulk on tiny edges. A double-folded hem (the cut edge tucked under again) has three layers of fabric: use it only where the pattern gives enough hem allowance, and stitch near its inner folded edge. Follow the finish each pattern’s steps give.
3Clip the curves
A curved edge like a neckline or armhole may not fold under flat. Don’t clip every curve: clip only where it needs it. Make small, shallow snips into the seam allowance, stopping well short of the dotted fold line, until the edge turns under smoothly. Never cut through the fold, and don’t clip deeper than you need: a deep clip can fray and weaken the edge.
4Stitch the turned edge down
With the edge folded under, stitch along the turned edge, following its shape and catching the folded allowance: through both layers, the garment and the turned-under edge, close to that edge’s cut edge, so every stitch holds it flat. Necklines and armholes need curved stitching. This is for a single-fold hem. On a narrow doll-clothes hem that is close to the fold too. Keep the fold on the dotted line as you sew, so the hem stays the depth the pattern gives. On a sewing machine, go slowly with a shorter stitch. By hand, use a small running stitch or backstitch.
5Stop cut edges fraying
Cotton frays where it is cut, and a single-fold hem leaves its cut edge on the inside. Sealing it is optional. A seam sealant such as Fray Check™ works: use a tiny amount, test it on a scrap of fabric first (it can stiffen or darken some fabrics), and let it dry completely. Pinking shears also slow fraying on larger dolls, but they can be too big for the narrow seam allowances of small dolls.
6No-sew hems, if you like
Fabric glue, such as Liquid Stitch, can hold a hem that takes little strain. Test it first on a printed scrap, and follow the product’s directions for drying, curing, washing and ironing. Run a thin line along the fold and press the fold into it with your fingers (not an iron, unless the product’s directions call for heat). Use it sparingly: too much leaves the edge stiff or shows through. Sew the seams that hold the garment together.
7Press as you go
Press each seam before another seam crosses it. It takes a few seconds and keeps small pieces flat. Test the iron’s heat first on a leftover corner of your panel, which is printed fabric too. Press through a pressing cloth (a thin cotton cloth between the iron and the fabric), so the iron never sits directly on the print or the printed lines, and use no more heat than the fabric needs.